THE BERGAMOT KITCHEN
28. SALSA ROJA @ 35K
Salsa roja made with árbol chili and tomatillos is another of my kitchen indispensables. It’s simple to make and it’s flavor is most likely beyond anything you’re going to find on the street. It registers in the vicinity of 30/35,000 on the Scoville scale which is about 6 times hotter than jalapeño.
It’s actually rather warm (and I do like heat), but a little goes a long way for us. In those instances where I want to pile it on I usually add a side of goat yogurt with black pepper and maybe some lemon which helps to bring your brain back in play.
I’m making a batch now because my next essay 29 needs this stuff and I’ve run out. Perfect timing. The ingredients call for árbol chili, tomatillos, garlic, a little salt and a little water. That’s it.
First thing is to prepare the tomatillos and garlic for toasting. I like to toss my tomatillos into a pot of hot tap water and let them bob around a little to soften the husks and waxy finish on the fruit. A few minutes and they are ready to shuck the husks after which they are sliced in half – I always inspect for any stowaways.
I’m using about 2.5 ounces of árbol chili and just enough tomatillos for the halves to cover the bottom of my 10″ iron skillet without overcrowding.
What you see me doing here is trimming the stem ends of the peppers. Make sure when you buy dried chili that they are leathery and not brittle. If they are of the later, they are old and without flavor. You should be able to bend them without snapping.
Once the trimming and inspection is complete, I stick them in a gallon bag, squeeze out most of the air and seal. My intention here is to remove as many of the seeds as possible with very little effort.
Note: Working chili requires some planning. No one likes to be told what to do but I’m telling you to wear rubber gloves or you’ll regret it. Also, don’t put any part of the chili into the sink or through the disposal. You or a loved one will regret that as well.
Toasting chili is also problematic. It’s always best to toast chili on an outside grill. If you do it in the kitchen, be prepared for being overcome as the capsaicinoids love to go airborne and can fill a room in a flash. Of course, it also depends on the chili type but even a wimpier chili can grab you.
Here’s my trick. Beat the hell out of the chili with a mallet. Just keep pounding. Shake the bag a little and pound some more – it does not take long.
Now pick up the bag and begin shaking it like you’re playing maracas. Keep the bag with a point tilted downward and as you shake and the seeds will collect nicely at the bottom of the cone.
Once most of the seeds have separated from the pods, snip the end of the bag just enough so the seeds can fall out but not so big that the chili comes out too.
Like this.
I’m smashing some garlic. Garlic, wide knife and a mallet. Nothing to it.
I’m using a couple of glugs of avocado oil for toasting the chili.
It’s imperative that the chili never stop moving. They need to be stirred and tossed until they begin to get toasty and that happens really fast. If they go too far they become bitter.
Looking good.
Turn off the fire BEFORE they are done because in the time it takes to get them out of the skillet they can go too far.
Use a slotted spoon for removal because we don’t want very little residual oil in the salsa.
Wipe out most of the oil, leaving a thin and shiny surface for the tomatillos to toast nicely.
Not too crowded (10” cast iron). Always face down until nice and toasty. Not too hot or they’ll scorch. Slow and caramelized is better than fast and burned.
I don’t like to toss in the garlic until I’ve flipped the halves. It’s too easy for the garlic to get away from you and then it becomes bitter.
Ready to rock and roll. Your N95 mask would come in handy here.
Chili, tomatillos, garlic and a little water – not too much. You can always add a little more later if need be. Too much and you’re screwed.
I think this old Cuisinart Food processor must be an antique by now. It’s another indispensable kitchen tool and it always performs perfectly.
A little salt and let her rip. Let it go until it’s all together. Just keep checking until it’s right. You’ll know when you see it.
In case you are wondering, this is the real deal. Of course, the chili type will determine flavor and heat. This is chile de árbol.
It runs around 30K on the Scoville scale.
I’ve used my artistic prerogative and called mine Salsa Roja 35K. I like the way that rolls off of the tongue. Besides, I challenge anyone to dispute it.
This beautiful jar will last us several weeks unless we get on a jag. One thing for sure. I’m busting into this stuff shortly.
MORE BERGAMOT KITCHEN ESSAYS
23. goat ghee wiz
24. what a fermentation
25. mystery thighs & basmati
26. basmati outrageous
27. not your granny’s egg salad
28. salsa roja @ 35k
29. huevos, salsa & cerveza
Thanks for visiting with me.
Paul V’Soske
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