THE BUTTERFLY WEED KITCHEN
17. A VERY SPECIAL CHUCK
Carol Ann and I do beef only on occasion but when we do I use all of my wits to get it right. At this point in the process it’s reassuring to know, without the slightest doubt, that the result will be sublime.
Now, not everyone can say that, but I can and here’s how. Follow along and I’ll show you how to take a perfectly “common” and (relatively) inexpensive cut of beef and transform it into something the likes of which few have experienced.
The first challenge is to find the best source of beef in your community. Not the second best. Not just okay. Only the best. The difference in cost is surprisingly little.
I want local pasture raised beef without any funny business and trimmed out by a butcher artist – not a processing house. Fortunately, our city has such an enterprise and we in West Michigan are fortunate to have several resources of this quality and integrity.
Our go to source for extraordinary beef is the E.A Brady’s Butcher Shop just around the corner from Martha’s Vineyard at Union and Lyon in Grand Rapids. Brady butcher Eric, cut and tied for me the five pound chuck you see here. It’s a beauty.
I can assure you that this ain’t your mama’s pot roast. When it’s finished this will be a seriously magnificent piece of beef which will compete and win against any cut – maybe with the exception of a spinalis dorsi.
As Carol Ann and I indulge in beef infrequently and try to serve small portions, it is imperative that it’s as perfect as I can make. This will be a royal sit down meal with a great bottle of wine, crispy Brussels sprouts with cannellini beans and a faux polenta. Oooh!
I will be cutting this beef into eighth pieces and freezing seven packages. That means seven more glorious beef meals over the next 3 or 4 months and BTW each will be packaged with it’s own portion of reduction sauce (essay 18).
SOUS VIDE: Fortunately for the home cooker the commercial water bath immersion system of cooking is now available to everyone (and inexpensive). Sous vide literally means vacuum seal. The idea is that you place something into a pouch or bag, remove the air so it sinks into a water bath and then apply a precise and constant temperature to it for a specified period of time.
When doing protein, it is particularly beneficial as conventional cooking methods subject a protein to excessively high heat in order to reach the core for purposes of killing organisms. A pan, oven or grill pushes high heat into and throughout the protein while it removes moisture which changes texture and flavor.
The sous vide method allows the entire (roast/steak/chicken fish/etc) protein to gradually and uniformly arrive at a pre-set temperature. Typically, the sous vide cooking temperature is relatively low and does not change the structure of the protein as it kills bacteria.
It is a pasteurization rather than a shock process. Bacteria will die in a microsecond at 185º but will also die at about 131º given a longer time at temperature.
Typically, when a protein is cooked this way, it is then “finished” for additional flavoring and presentation with a fast conventional caramelization searing – either in the oven, broiler or searing pan.
For those of you who are unsure or unfamiliar with this method of food preparation, I would urge you to do your own homework and draw your own conclusions. It’s certainly an indispensable tool in my kitchen and many others as well. I can say unequivocally that my Anova sous vide machine has been the single most important kitchen tool in my lifetime – and that’s a long time.
On to the chuck. What you see is a sous vide machine in a 12 liter pot, the chuck, a generous handful of herbs, easy garlic (essay 1), salt & pepper, some EVO and a double immersion bag (Ziploc freezer).
Pat the chuck dry and rub it affectionately with EVO.
Like this. I also put the salt, pepper and easy garlic into a small bowl.
Mix and stir. Make a mash. The only reason I did not add anchovies to the mash is that I couldn’t find any. Damn!
Note: Top Secret. When doing beef (actually most everything) make a mash of garlic, EVO and anchovies. Figure out how to get that blend into the cooking cycle but kept it your secret. Most people are inexplicably revolted by these magic fish and can’t get past them psychologically. However, if they don’t know, they are then free to experience what is the world’s most wonderful flavor enhancer. Trust me, no one who thinks they hate anchovies will be able to recognize its presence. They’ll just think they’ve gone to heaven.
Spread the mash all over.
Cover with herbs and slide into a gallon baggie. Make sure that the open end is folded over to protect the zipper from getting stuff on it. This zipper needs to perform.
Get remaining herbs and stuff into the bag and seal it up.
Open one corner of the bag and carefully slide it into the water and slowly force it to sink. The water pressure will force out the air. Don’t let any water sneak into the bag. Once the air is out, seal it up. It should sink. If it floats, try again.
If you look closely, you will see that I have “double” bagged it. This beauty will remain in the bath at 136º for 24 hours. I do not want to take any chance that something will go wrong. A large piece of meat in the bath for this much time deserves extra protection. Do the vacuum sealing before the water gets too hot or it’s very uncomfortable.
It is up to temperature and will be in the whirlpool for 24 hours. The tank will be covered to prevent evaporation over the course of the cook.
After 24 hours and I remove the bag and plunge it into an ice bath for about 10 minutes which stops the cooking process.
Once cooled down I like to hold the bag over a colander and bowl, snip a corner and retrieve the juices.
I’m picking off the herbs.
These juices will be part of the chuck reduction in the next session.
Snipping the strings.
Now I’m down from 5 pounds to 4 pounds 2 ounces.
Now I’m going to cut this chuck into eight meals for Carol Ann and me. Can’t wait to see what it looks like inside although I already know exactly what I’ll see. A perfect medium rare.
Now it’s divided into two – 2 pound sections. This does not look like your mama’s chuck. It’s also important to remember that this is a “Brady” beef and very special.
Note: I set the temperature for 136º and held it for 24 hours because this is our preferred wellness for most cuts of beef. Were we inclined for something other than medium rare, it is just a matter of lowering or raising the temperature a few degrees.
What you will observe is that the degree of doneness is consistent throughout the entire cut and not just in the middle. Conventional cooking will transition from well done to whatever you are looking for at the core. That is unacceptable to me.
Now I’m cutting it into quarters.
Now in eighths which Carol Ann and I will split. That’s $3.00 a serving for the best beef in Grand Rapids and the result was guaranteed before it began. The right source for the beef and the right way to get it to where we wanted it to be. No guess work. No anxiety.
Individual wraps.
Seven pre-cooked pieces for the freezer along with cannellini beans and Brussels sprouts for today’s meal. Is this easy or what?
Freeze.
On to the sprouts. I trim the ends – no water please. They get spread out in the microwave and brought to the point where they are ALMOST too hot to handle. It doesn’t take long. A minute or so depending on how many you are doing.
I cut them in half and peel the leaves until they are presentable. Now they are ready for caramelization.
I’m using some oil of each type. The avocado for the higher heat and coconut for nutty flavor.
I’m adding some coconut in with the avocado oil.
Sprouts go in cut side down and remain that way until they have caramelized. No peeking.
These are ready for the next step. The faux polenta is simmering away moisture on the rear burner.
I’ve taken out the sprouts, paper toweled the kadai and am preparing to combine the sprouts with the beans.
A nice big gob of Meyenberg Goat Milk Butter.
Note: Most of our friends who have been introduced to goat butter get hooked. It’s so tasty. I have no idea why I’ve cooked without it for so many years. Ignorance!
Work the beans into the butter until nice and hot and then toss in the sprouts.
Here is where I add a splash of Corine’s. There are other ways of getting some heat and vinegar into stuff like this but Corine’s is super good and as close as the fridge.
Another plug for three great products. Corine’s, Futura Kadai and Le Creuset.
https://www.corinescuisine.com
https://www.hawkinscookers.com
https://www.lecreuset.com
Now the easy garlic (essay 1).
A little bit of tossing to finish. Notice the faux polenta is still back there on simmer, shedding moisture.
This is my searing station in the prairie. You just can’t do this in a residential kitchen – can’t get it hot enough and clean up is a pain in the ass.
I have a variety of heavy cast iron pans for this purpose. I never want things crowded. This 10 incher is about right.
The trick is to learn how high of a (propane) flame is required for pre-heating the skillet. It wants to be hot but not white hot. It’s a learning curve to be sure. At least it was for me. I’ve had several close calls while figuring it out.
I only use Marianne’s Harvest Brands 100% Avocado Oil for searing. I’ve a found better way of getting my searing surface hot enough without burning the oil. Avocado oil works the best for me.
I’m searing each side for 15 seconds maximum. If it takes longer, the pan was not hot enough to begin with. I am looking for a perfect “finish” that does not impact the interior of the meat.
Yum.
Looking good.
Last turn.
Finished.
Can’t wait.
Perfect medium rare, mouth watering tender and would put any prime rib or steak to shame.
Affectionately spooning on the reduction (see essay 18).
The dinner. Thank you Stan for the wonderful Bordeaux. Double perfection.
MORE BUTTERFLY WEED ESSAYS
15. crispy eggs and beans
16. faux polenta
17. a very special chuck
18. a chuck reduction
19. goat cheese & arugula
20. everyday romaine & radicchio
21. nuts!
22. some dry pantry essentials
Thanks for visiting with me.
Paul V’Soske
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