THE IRONWEED KITCHEN
39. REALLY RISOTTO
REALLY RISOTTO (for two). When done correctly, it is the reason that the word sublime came to be. There is just no other way to describe the sensory overload one experiences when eating a real risotto. Few have had such pleasure because it’s just not possible to get the real thing in a restaurant. It’s simply too labor intensive and takes too much time. It is only practical if a commercial kitchen can come up with ways of speeding up the process. It just ain’t the same.
I’m sure that there are exceptions but for the most part few have had the opportunity for such an encounter. That was certainly true for myself until I took the plunge.
While the process is not complicated, it does take practice and experience to appreciate the sounds, the changing textures, colors and aromas one senses during metamorphosis.
You just have to be prepared to fall short of expectations a few times before you get the hang of it but once you do, look out.
I admit that it has been a long time since I’ve done a risotto for Carol Ann. Mainly, because we rarely eat rice (grains of any kind). It’s not that we never do, but we save them for very special occasions.
For us and what’s most important is that we are no longer slaves to grain cravings. It took several weeks to break the cycle and we’re grateful for the resultant health benefits which ensued.
I apologize for taking so long to get going with this but as with risotto, you need be patient.
• I prefer using my Le Creuset Ironware because of the reliable temperature control.
• Delallo Arborio rice/vacuum pack – 1/2 cup
• Chicken stock from the barbie – essay 38
• Shallots
• Unsalted butter
• Parmigiano Reggiano
• White wine
• EVO
• Parsley
• Salt & pepper
The first thing to understand about risotto is that it is fundamentally about texture – the flavors take care of themselves and there are so many options. There is online path for texture and that must end with perfect tooth (al dente). To understand risotto you need to get a close-up look at one of several rice varieties most commonly used for this heavenly dish.
Note: Risotto is served up in many flavors as I’ve said. This one is about as basic and uncomplicated as it gets. Hands down, our favorite flavorite.
The rice I’m using today is Arborio (aar baw ree ow). A close look reveals what looks to be an inner white seed surrounded by a translucent encasement. Almost like an egg.
The process of building risotto is to gradually soften and dissolve the translucent encasement until only the inner seed remains intact and at a perfect state of al dente (tooth). I cannot overstate this fact. A really bad risotto can taste great but that’s not the point. Anyone with half a brain can make this dish taste like heaven but it takes skill, experience and patience to create the proper texture.
The softening and dissolving occurs by moving the rice at a very specific and deliberate speed as it is suspended in its cooking stock. Stirring too rapidly will make the risotto gooey. Too slowly will burn it. Some believe that stirring constantly is also problematic but I believe that if the pace is moderate and steady, with occasional periods of rest of maybe 30 seconds or so, the results are usually favorable.
The pattern and tempo of the wooden spoon as it moves through the risotto requires practice and experience which can only be achieved by someone doing this over their own stove – more than once. Little does one know the reward that awaits those who learn this skill. I would encourage everyone who loves their stove to get good at this.
For those who may wish to try, remember that it’s not about soft rice between the teeth. It’s entirely about al dente. You’ve got to feel those little “rice” seeds as you bite into it. This ain’t China Buffet white rice. This is X-Rated stuff.
Once the arborio has arrived at its state of readiness to begin receiving small portions of stock, one can ill afford any diversions from the task at hand. You are there for the duration while the arborio begins to slowly dissolve and build towards the grand finale. When that perfect state arrives, it is time to dress it up and serve it up. Fast.
This is not complicated. There are few moving parts. It is important to have all of the prep work complete before the oil hits the skillet.
Chop-chop the parsley.
Finely minced shallot. I’m just doing one.
Grating the Parmigiano Reggiano. This is a really lovely Parmigiano Reggiano from Costco.
Note: There are no substitutes but the real thing and no pre-grated cheese unless it is authentic PR. Don’t even think of trying to cheat with something from Wisconsin. That would be ridiculous.
If it can’t be done correctly, don’t bother. Just order some up from the Olive Garden if that will satisfy your sensibilities.
Rolling some Parmigiano Reggiano off the block as a garnish when served.
Here’s where the work begins. I’ve got a quart of hot stock at 12 O’clock and clockwise begins the wine, rice, shallots and EVO. The process starts at 4 O’clock and works counter clockwise back into the stock pan.
After the skillet is properly heated (this means that the handle is too hot to touch without a pad – if it doesn’t make you scream it’s not hot enough) in goes the EVO. That will quickly heat and by the time you toss in the shallot it will sizzle.
I’m working the shallots in the EVO until it begins to caramelize a little.
Now goes the rice into the shallot and EVO. Immediately, keep it moving.
Keep it working. The purpose here is to elevate the temperature of the rice in a semi-dry state until it begins to crackle in the pan.
It’s coming along and heating nicely.
If I listen carefully, I can begin to hear some faint crackling sounds. That’s what I’m waiting for.
Now I’m adding some Chardonnay (not cheap). I’m using about 2/3 of this little tiny pitcher.
Now, at an even and steady pace, I’m carefully moving the arborio around until the wine has all been absorbed. Once it’s sucked up, it’s time to begin introducing the stock.
The stock pot contains about 4 cups of chicken stock. I doubt that I’ll use more. It’s likely that I’ll use closer to 3 cups. Remember, I’m doing this for the two of us so I’m only using 1/2 cup of arborio. Whatever is made must be eaten. It’s just not possible to have left-overs. That would be unacceptable.
There is probably about 3/4 cup of stock in the ladle. I’m working the wooden spoon in somewhat of a figure 8 trail. The spoon moves continuously until the stock is almost absorbed. As the spoon moves through the rice a trail or a wake of stock will form behind it. When that occurs it’s time for another ladle of stock.
Trails are forming. It’s time to add another ladle of stock. Steady and evenly paced. If you are alert, you can occasionally let things rest for 30 seconds or so.
However, the transparent encasement that you are trying to dissolve needs to be moving for that to happen so you can’t go to sleep.
Notice that it is now much more liquid in appearance. As the spoon moves through the arborio it continues to dissolve and thicken.
The concoction is beginning to grow. Keep moving the spoon until a trail forms.
It’s beginning to tighten up. Keep the spoon moving. A few more seconds and it’ll be time for another add.
Almost.
This will be the last ladle of stock.
Coming together. Almost.
A minute more and it’ll be ready for the finishing sequence.
First the butter. Then the Parmigiano Reggiano. A little salt & pepper to taste and some of the parsley.
Cast iron retains the heat better than any other cookware and Le Creuset is the best. Now I can drag the unsalted butter around and it’ll melt quickly.
Like this.
Now for the Parmigiano. Gently push it around so it melts and coats the arborio.
Some salt & pepper to taste (careful on the salt).
Mix in a little of the parsley.
Serve it up. It’s truly heavenly and you’ll only get this experience if it comes off of your own stove.
A little more parsley, a few curls of Parmigiano Reggiano and the best full bodied Chardonnay you can find (afford). Here’s to Ironweed! By the way, we’re glad you stopped by AFTER dinner.
MORE IRONWEED KITCHEN ESSAYS
37. lamb & eggs
38. chicken stock from the barbie
39. really risotto
40. bread rules
41.eggs, hash & coffee
42. cannellini soup
43. lemon guacamole
44. smokey salsa verde
Thanks for visiting with me.
Paul V’Soske
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